Try to preserve any grommets that are in good condition – the original Lucas grommets are very soft and easy to fit, but are almost impossible to find. Connect the yellow, white and brown wires of the harness to the like-colored wires on the trailer with butt connectors. This series of articles focuses on an early P5B from 1968 with a ballasted coil and an alternator rather than dynamo, but earlier and later P5B’s are broadly similar with only relatively minor incremental changes each year. How To Rewire A Trailer Harness have some pictures that related each other. I’d recommend fitting an inertia cut-off switch with an electric fuel pump. Wrap the harness in the polythene, securing it tightly with PVC table, and start pushing/pulling the harness through the bulkhead. Give me a day-or-so and I’ll post the circuit diagram for the whole thing on here – I’ll make it an article. Rywire Motorsport Electronics specializes in wire-tuck (tucked), high performance, Mil-Spec engine harnesses. This should be published on the website in a few days. Most modern PVC cable is ‘thin-wall’ type so it takes-up less space in the harness – this is perfectly OK for classic cars as long as the conductor rating is correct. Now, you need to get the harness ends back through the bulkhead into the engine compartment. I also recommend that if you need to replace any wiring, try to source the correct colour-coded wire of the same or larger conductor size. The braided cable is braided over a PVC inner, so although the braiding may be frayed it isn’t necessarily electrically unsafe. Start disconnecting the wires from the instruments, switches and warning / illumination lights, taking lots of photos. Measure some voltages making sure they’re as expected. Now is a great time to recondition the dashboard coverings etc. A make and model for the particular motorcycle would be helpful, they are all different. The ground wire connects to the black wire on the stereo harness. Great Vid Richard, keep up the good work! I’d then have a period-correct harness, adapted to exactly how I want it. Hopefully you’ve read Part 1 of this article, and also watched the video I’ve published talking about this. And that’s it, you’re done! Not cheap, but half the price of other tools. Touch the black meter probe to the wire you are testing for ground. That would be the simplest thing, and if done properly would have been fine. If you're thinking of going out to the local wrecking yard and using something off a donor vehicle you're sick. Obviously any wall would do, although a fence makes this very easy. Once they’re fitted, you’re past the worst. The binnacle front should then move back a bit further. P5B’s are simple in this regard – all were negative earth, and all P5B’s used an alternator, not a dynamo. You should use proper harness tape that doesn’t have any adhesive and can be removed easily if needed. It can certainly seem daunting, but if I can do it, you can do it! Work logically and take lots of photos of each terminal or component as a record. Just do everything you’ve just done, but in reverse, Simple! AlxTgr LSU Fan Kyre Banorg Member since Oct 2003 69651 posts. In permanent market I wrote the component it was connecting to with the terminal number if appropriate. There is power in the harness, but only the bare minimum. To make this easier I split my wiring diagram by function, so you can just look at each part in turn. In part 1, I talked about labelling the new wiring harness whilst it’s out the car, and whilst you still have the old harness in your car to refer back to. AutoReWire.com is "The" Source for just about Every Kind of Automotive Terminal End, Wire Splice, Connector, Shrink Wrap, Toggle Switch, Master Disconnect Switch, Battery Terminal, Light Bulb, Fuse Panel and Wiring Harness you could possibly need to rewire or repair your Street Rod, Custom, Hot Rod, Race Car, Truck, Trailer, … This was rather time-consuming, but invaluable in understanding the wiring and planning the changes I wanted. Thank You!” I did see at one time ISIS stated that a convention harness in stall was 40 man hours, and there's was 8 or 10 man hours, that was one of there advertising points. Again, available from Vehicle Wiring Products and Autosparks. To make things easier, I’ve had the standard version of my diagram professionally printed at A3 size, and these are available to buy in the website Shop and also below here, in full colour, both on plain-paper and also laminated. As you do each one, refit the harness grommets. Hi Richard, Here in this article, I share some knowledge about how to wire a car stereo without a harness. This made things much easier, and I got a sun tan at the same time. Push the harness up until is stops, then bend the harness at a right angle to the bay and then push forward. It may be tempting to jump-in and start ripping wires out of your car, but I strongly advise taking your time and doing Step 1 first. Now, finally we can cover the process of replacing the harness. One going to my left grip for turn signals and light, then the other going to my new speedometer. I did not do a huge amount, I had to rewire two sections of my main harness. It’s 3-pages in total, and is correct for a 1968 P5B (both Saloon and Coupe), although Rover sometimes made running changes, so I can’t guarantee everything is correct for your car. Copyright 2020 RoverP5.com. Press inward on the side tabs of the headlight wiring harness on the rear of the headlight assembly. 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